image of Izmir
Boyoz at Alsancak Dostlar Fırını


Dec 21 – 22, 2023

Had I had another day of near-beach weather in Cesme, I might have spent the day staring at the sea and eating Kumru in that deserted off-season beach town.

But grey skies drove me towards Izmir, a city which I am told is held up as a place that will always stand for secularized Türkiye.

I was already feeling a bit checked out of my trip, so this was a quiet day. The highlight was discovering a local Sephardic inspired pastry called a Boyoz, a flaky, oily, savory or sweet ball of deliciousness.

Izmir again reminded me how wonderful car-free pedestrian arcades are. There's also a classic Ottoman bazaar in town that was significantly less stressful and crowded than the Istanbul

I finished my time in Turkey with a simple dinner of pilav, a simple buttered rice dish that has no right to be as delicious as it is.